For a jar of 100g of cream:
PHASE A
- Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate 5.0%
- 2% hydrogenated castor oil
- Plant ester (Ethylhexyl Stearate) 6.5%
- Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 6.5%
- Olive oil 6.0%
- Avocado oil 3.0%
PHASE B
- Glycerine extract of red grapes 3.0%
- Xanthan gum 0.5%
- Water 65.8%
To cold cream add
- 1.5% Vitamin E acetate
- Optional Ylang Ylang essential oil (indicative 0.2%)
- Preservative 0.2%
Thanks to your suggestions, the self-production section is enriched with new ingredients!
Many of you have asked us for recipes to create natural home creams and therefore we have chosen to include two new raw materials very useful for the formulation of water-in-oil emulsions and easy to use, the Caprylic Capric Trigliceride and the Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (a vegetable emulsifier specific for this type of creams).
The first recipe that we propose is that of a very nourishing night cream rich in fatty substances (Difficulty of medium realization).
It is perfect for those with dry skin and is also useful for mature skin thanks to the oils used and the addition of vitamin E, avocado oil and extra virgin olive oil.
Preparation
Before starting, it is useful to sterilize all the utensils that we will use during the preparation in order to minimize the contamination of our cream.
We can boil the utensils (about 15-20min) or clean them with pure food alcohol.
- Phase A (fat soluble)
- Phase B (water soluble)
Once this is done we can start with the preparation of the two phases of this cream, Phase A consisting of fat-soluble substances (which dissolve in oil) and phase B composed of water-soluble substances (which dissolve in water).
First, dissolve the hydrogenated castor oil in a water bath and once liquefied, add all the ingredients of phase A (oils, butters and emulsifiers) until completely dissolved.
In another beaker, mix all the components of phase B (aqueous) until a well-homogenized solution is obtained. We recommend preparing phase B by dispersing the xanthan gum in the glycerin and adding water little by little. Heat everything up to about 50 ° C.
- Phase A + phase B
- Emulsify the two phases
Once the two phases have been prepared, we arrive at the crucial moment for the creation of our cream .. after verifying that the temperature of phase A is about 50 degrees, combine the two phases slowly, mixing as you go and then help the emulsion with the mini pimmer. Leave to cool and add the other ingredients. Do not worry if at first the appearance is not the best ... by continuing to mix the cream slowly forms, taking on its white color and a compact consistency!
Unlike other recipes, this cream thickens quite quickly so you can immediately see (and try) the fruit of your labors
How to use
The percentage of oils supported by the emulsifier used is between 20 and 30%, so if you want a more or less fat cream, you can vary the percentage of oils used.
We have chosen to add triglyceride to the fat phase in order to give the cream a drier touch (replacing it with only olive or avocado oil will instead have a fatter touch).
The addition of the essential oil is optional, we recommend adding it once the two phases have been combined to prevent it from spoiling with temperature. The only drawback to this method is that there is a risk that it will not be emulsified very well .. you have to mix it with energy and cross your fingers !!
